16 Jun 2011 - www.geoffkellywinereviews.co.nz

Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir 2002

Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand: 14.5%; $40; screwcap; grapes from all four of the vineyards soon to become known for their Individual Vineyard wines, in a warm dry vintage; some whole-bunch, up to 7 days cold-soak; 75% wild yeast; c. 20-day cuvaison; 11 months on lees in French oak 30% new; RS < 2 g/L; light fining and coarse filtration only; www.mtdifficulty.co.nz

Mature pinot noir, not quite as rosy as the 2003 Target Gully. Comparison between the two wines is intriguing, the 2002 a little more sturdy and oaky, as befits the bigger year, the 2003 more ethereal. Both are fine examples of mature Otago pinot, which should give great pleasure at table. Checking my earlier review of this wine in 2004, the cellaring recommendation has worked out well, even perhaps a little conservative. We will know we are truly a wine country, when consumers are interested in and proud to own older and mature wines. This has more time in hand than the 2003 Target Gully. Fully mature, no hurry. GK 06/11

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