30 Sep 2011 - Geoff Kelly

Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir 2005

"After reporting recently on a batch of wine including the exciting Mt Difficulty Individual Vineyard pinots, it was good to have Matt Dicey back in Wellington again to present his wines to a different audience at Wellington's Regional Wines & Spirits, and with quite different accompanying vintages. At risk of sounding like a fan club for Mt Difficulty, you can't help noticing that while some winemakers complain about the dollar, and generally bemoan the state of affairs in their industry as farmers are wont to do, others like Dicey are stomping the country, giving spectacular tastings showcasing their latest releases as illuminated by generous selections of back vintages. Few winemakers bestir themselves to do this, let alone twice in two months from Otago to Wellington, as in Mt Difficulty's case. These tastings are eminently worth seeking out. Matt Dicey is emerging as one of New Zealand's pre-eminent pinot noir makers, seeking a style of pinot noir which is both beautiful and totally international, and his commentaries are invaluable. Beyond pinot noir, there are exciting wines amongst their other varieties too."

2005 Mt Difficulty Pinot Noir 18 ½ ()

Bannockburn, Central Otago, New Zealand: 14%; $ – [ screwcap; hand-harvested @ 1.4 t/ac, the product of a cooler reduced-yield year; 15 – 20% whole bunch, 5 – 7 days cold soak, mainly wild yeast, 16 days cuvaison; MLF and 11 months in barrel on full lees ]

Ruby with a little garnet creeping in. Bouquet benefits from decanting and air, to reveal a highly varietal and quite strong pinot bouquet, with a clear boronia depth of florality. Palate is firmer than Target '09, the tannin level raised like '09 Long Gully, but there is plenty of red and black cherry fruit to carry it. This gives the impression of considerably more cellar life ahead of it. Using it now, it really needs air to show its best, not because it is reductive, just because the fruit seems sternly wrapped up with tannin, and the air exposure loosens it. As winemaker Matt Dicey commented, a dense introverted vintage. Cellar to another 6 years. GK 08/11

Geoff Kelly Wine Reviews

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