15 Dec 2008 - Geoff Kelly

Mt Difficulty Chardonnay 2007

“Lemon straw. This wine needs decanting / some air, to reveal itself and soften a little. I have written before about the linden blossom / subtlest acacia blossom florals that great chardonnay can sometimes show in Grand Cru Chablis, and occasionally elsewhere. Once breathed, this 2007 Mt Difficulty offers the definitive illustration of the style, the bouquet showing enticing florals on pale stonefruits and lees autolysis. In mouth, the wine is certainly crisper than the Riflemans, naturally enough, and the analogy with Grand Cru Chablis is more accurate. The actual richness hiding below the acid could in fact remind the taster of leaner vintages of Corton-Charlemagne. I feel like saying, you've got to taste this wine, but the acid is high and the style tending austerely European, so not everyone will like it, therefore. It is great wine, all the same, to cellar 3 – 12 years, maybe longer.” Geoff Kelly 11/08

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