18 Feb 2009 - Jancis Robinson

Mt Difficulty Pinot Gris 2008

“One of the reasons I’ve chosen this excellent dry white is because it is such a noble exception to the generally pretty disappointing quality of New Zealand Pinot Gris. I was treated to a blind tasting in Marlborough recently of what had been chosen locally as some of the finest examples of each significant varietal produced in New Zealand – other than Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir, which had been encountered elsewhere. It got off to a seriously rocky start because the first flight consisted of a series of really rather disappointing Pinot Gris. My heart sank. I started to wonder how I was politely going to thank the organisers for going to all this trouble. I need not have worried since the succeeding Rieslings, Gewurztraminers, Chardonnays and Syrahs were all extremely impressive, but it seems as though Pinot Gris is currently just too fashionable for its own good.

Each one seemed more vapid and flabby than the next. Kiwis themselves have turned their backs on Chardonnay and may be a bit bored by Sauvignon Blanc now so that it is all too easy to sell Pinot Gris in New Zealand. There is therefore not that much impetus to cram lots of flavour into the wine. A little residual sugar can be relied upon to give some semblance of character. And, after all, most of the vines are terribly young.

But this example, from one of the most respected Central Otago wineries in Bannockburn, almost next door to Felton Road, is chock full of flavour. Interestingly, Robin and son Matt Dicey of Mt Difficulty think there is huge potential for aromatic white wines in this predominantly Pinot Noir region and, thanks to a slew of new plantings, their own vines are now almost half light-skinned varieties.

The fruit in this Mt Difficulty Pinot Gris 2008 Central Otago is wonderfully bright and sharply etched. There is real life, smokiness and juice here, and much more zest and refreshment than in the average Alsace Pinot Gris in fact. The residual sugar is only 4g/ l so it effectively tastes dry – and fun – with lots of white stone fruit character.”   Jancis Robinson, 17 Feb 2009

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